Your Guide to Cody Peak

I have a photo of Cody Peak framed on the wall of my office. Whenever I need some inspiration I take a moment and ponder the mountain. It is so iconically Jackson and the terrain on it will challenge every fiber of your being. If you have ever skied off of the tram or Sublette chair at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort you have most likely notice the jagged peak to the South. Cody Peak is an extreme skier’s dream. With access just outside of the ski area boundary and a short boot pack, average joes can access terrain that is seen in extreme skiing movies. The peak is not for the faint of heart and I would recommend only for expert skier with extensive backcountry experience. There have been countless avalanches on Cody Peak as well as avalanche-related deaths on the peak. It is out of bounds, therefore you will need to have appropriate avalanche training and gear in order to ski the peak.

Cody Peak has numerous aesthetically pleasing lines. From the open powder field known as the Powder 8s to the extremely steep Pucker Face and narrow couloirs and chutes with names like “Once is Enough”, Cody has tons of skiable terrain. To reach Cody you leave the resort through the upper gate in Rendezvous Bowl and follow a mellow trail along the ridge to the bottom of the boot pack.

The Hike

The Cody Peak boot pack is the scariest boot pack in the Jackson Hole sidecountry area. Depending on how much snow there is the first part of the boot pack can be more like a rock scramble.. with ski boots on. It’s a heart pounding experience. Plastic soles with no tread on icy rock is not a good combination. This, coupled with the fact that the peak is avalanches-prone means that it isn’t a good choice for early season skiing. The peak is best skied with a lot of snow, when the boot pack is more than likely to be filled in – with the exception of a few spots where you will need to scramble over rock outcroppings. Additionally, the peak is very susceptible to wind. If it is blowing more than 15MPH you most likely will not want to hike Cody, where you will be pummeled by wind during your entire hike.

Once you are above the scramble the hike becomes very mellow. You will hike down the ridge and around the back side of Cody Peak. Once you get to the top of the ridge you will have to make your decision on what you want to ski.

The Lines

There are 6 lines that you can ski off of the bootpack on Cody Peak. The first line that you will approach is called Pucker Face. It is an extremely steep face with a cliff ban in the middle. From the top all you can see is a roll over, right where the cliff ban is. It’s rather nerve wracking, not particularly knowing where the cliffs are. This face is also very prone to avalanches, so if you are the first one to ski it make sure you do a proper risk assessment.

The next line that you will reach is a bowl called No Shadows. It’s popular entrance is on the skier’s right of the bowl. Next up the ridge is Four Shadows, another steep bowl which is typically plagued by a large cornice on the top. The best way to enter Four Shadows is at the highest part of the bowl on the right hand side. Four Shadows and No Shadows are north facing, which means that they are good options during a drought when all of the southern aspects are baked or frozen. Up past Four Shadows is a north facing chute. Central is a hair raising, narrow no-fall chute with a mandatory air at the bottom. If you can ski it you most likely are a pro skier or should consider changing your career.

From the top of Four Shadows there is a bootpack traverse over to the south side of the peak. The first couloir that you reach is called “Once Is Enough.” With a sketchy entrance, this steep no-fall couloir is one of the most well known lines in the Tetons. You can see the line from the road, it’s the line in the notch of Cody Peak when viewed from the South. It’s a popular line to ski in the spring when the sun warms the snow and creates edgeable corn. If you look into Once and decide that it’s a little much for you, head up the peak further (to the East) and take a look at “Twice Is Nice.” As you can gather from the name of the line, it’s a more mellow option to Once with a nice hanging powder field that narrows into a choke. This steep line is equally fun during the springtime. These lines drop you into No Name Canyon. If you are looking to extend your day, keep right at the exit of both of the couloirs and take the traverse over to No Name.

Last, but not least, are the Powder 8s. This open powder field can be access by either skiing the North facing lines on Cody (Pucker Face, No Shadows, Four Shadows or Central), and then traversing over to the bottom of the bootpack, or by hiking the bottom of the bowl at the base of Cody Peak. The Powder 8 bootpack is relatively short and steep.. I mean, sweet. From the top of the Powder 8s you can ski the powder field or traverse over to No Name Peak or drop into No Name Canyon. The Powder 8’s are popular to lap.

So there you have it. I have skied all of the lines on Cody Peak except for Central and Once. The terrain is heart pumping and exhilarating. It is really amazing to have such challenging terrain just steps outside of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort boundary. If you are a serious backcountry skier I definitely recommend fitting a hike up Cody Peak into your trip!

Skiing Corbet’s Couloir

Described as one of the most rowdy in bounds run in the United States, Corbet’s Couloir is not for the faint of heart. It has also earned the award of “America’s scariest ski slope.” With a potential drop of 10 to 30 feet, it is on the bucket list of most die hard skier and snowboarders. To reach the famed couloir you need to take the tram up to the top of Rendezvous Mountain. Once out of the tram, head into Corbet’s Cabin for some delicious waffles. Your choice of waffles include waffles covered in nutella, raspberry jam, butter and brown sugar or peanut butter and bacon. Between each scrumptious bite of nutella drenched waffle (my favorite), take the time to muster up the courage to ski one of the craziest lines of your life.

Once you are fortified with delicious waffle, ski the ridge on the left hand side (towards the tram) until you reach a roped off area. Take a few deep breaths and ski into the entrance. There is typically a line of people, waiting to ski it. If there aren’t any other people around I’d advise you to be a little cautious. People may not be skiing it because the landing is super icy and you may want to reconsider skiing it. My favorite time to ski it is during the spring when the snow is a little more forgiving. Typically, by the end of the season there is a goat path into the couloir, created by skiers that side slip the drop. One year the side slip was so defined that as long as you could make the bank turn you could ski into the couloir. Other years it has a smaller drop (3 to 5 feet) than coming off the top of the couloir. It definitely requires dexterity but if you are a strong skier you should be able to accomplish it.

Once you are in the coulior you can spend some time hanging out in the cave on the left hand side of the run. During the springtime there is typically a crowd of skiers in the cave drinking beers and watching the spectacle that is Corbet’s – epic falls, amazing saves and great executions are all fun to watch. If you prefer not to ski the coulior I recommend that you ski the East Ridge Traverse into Tensleep Bowl and look up at the people trying to ski it. Or you can ski up to the edge of the couloir up top and watch people from above while your palms sweat.

I have skied it numerous times, primarily in the spring, (see photo on right) and a classic line is to ski Corbet’s to the Expert Chutes and then traverse into Toilet Bowl and finally ski Dick’s Ditch to the bottom of the mountain. They call this line the Bamboozler run. If you are going to ski Corbet’s you should definitely try to complete the Bamboozler run. Without stopping. Haha, just kidding. Even if you aren’t the best skier around, if you love to ski you definitely need to at least stick your tips over the edge of Corbet’s and then take a deep breath and imagine skiing the famed run. Nothing beats the nerves that you have just before skiing a big line. It’s definitely earned its place as one of the most scariest ski runs in America.

Gaper Fools Day in Jackson Hole

Every year April Fools Day brings an onslaught of harmless pranks and tomfoolery across the US. In the “peter pan” town of Jackson Hole, where every resident refuses to grow up, it is only natural that its residents take April Fools Day to a whole other level. At Jackson Hole Mountain Resort the locals descend on to the hill in bright neon onesies, jeans, rear entry boots and snow blades. While we appreciate the skiers who visit our valley, sometime their attire is downright hilarious. Some people feel like if you go skiing once a year, why invest in a good ski jacket and pants? Why not just use an one piece that you bought in the 90s, or a pair stretch pants from the 80s? So in turn, us locals dress up like those visitors. While this day may seem like a jab to our visitors, it really presents an opportunity to escape the rad bro get ups and just have some good old fashion (literally) fun.

The term gaper is derived from the gap present between the goggles and hat or helmet. Unfortunately, this feature is indicative of an individual who rarely skis or who is learning how to ski. It may seem a bit pretentious, but Gaper Day is all about having fun. You get to ski in a pizza, mess around in the lift line and laugh at yourself and others, a lot. The best way to witness this spectacle is to head to the “Thunder Bumps” on the Thunder trail located under the Thunder chairlift. By mid day there will be a party at the top of the trail, people eject out of their skis and drink beers while watching fellow gapers do tricks off of a small jump. To get a taste of what you’re in for check this video out (fast forward to 2:30 if you want to see people skiing off of the jump). Ultimately, gaper day is about having a good time.

After the mountain closes, head to the base in front of the tram. The ridiculousness continues off the hill and into the evening.

As with anything in the ski industry, there is no shortage of alcohol involved, so make sure you partake responsibly. Skiing intoxicated can be quite dangerous. Thanks to the amount of hotels, restaurants and bars who own property in the area the liquor laws extend to the base area. You can walk around with an open container from anywhere, the liquor store, a bar, your backpack, etc. without getting in trouble. Though I will caution you, make sure that if you do drink, DO NOT DRIVE. Take the START Bus. The police are aware of gaper day and they tend to increase their presence on the road. Above all, go have a good time and dress appropriately!

Spring Après Ski at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

As temperatures have begun to approach 50 degrees and the sunshine remains bright late into the day, après ski at Jackson Hole evolves. No longer forced to move into a bar to keep warm after you come off the slopes, during the weekends the area under the tram becomes a full on Spring Break party.

This weekend marks the beginning of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s Music Under the Tram series. Every Saturday (starting this Saturday, March 10) until closing weekend, there will be a live band at the base of the tram dock. The band, which changes each week, starts at 3:30pm. Nick Wilson’s has built a snow bar so that you may have easy access to those well earned beers while dancing in your ski boots. Local’s tip: the base area is actually on overlapping private properties. All of the properties have their own liquor licenses so you may bring your own beer and save some cash. There are two liquor stores at the ski resort: there is one in the basement of the Mangy Moose called the Mangy Moose Cellars & Grocery and the second is the Teton Village Market, located across the main parking lot with an attached gas station. To save the most money, buy your booze in town, the liquor stores in Teton Village mark up the goods.

While waiting for the day to wind down and the music to start up at the base, head over to Casper Restaurant. This on-mountain restaurant has a deck as well as many outdoor picnic tables, arranged to perfect your goggle tan. The deck gets plenty of sun and the view of the rest of the mountain is rather easy on the eyes. Casper has a semi-full bar with a few beers on tap and your basic hard alcohols. They have a variety of specialty drinks that hit the spot. The Bloody Mary is a local favorite. New this year, Casper offers a variety of Jello shots. From Rum and Coke, Washington Apple to Lemon Meringue and Key Lime Pie these Jello shots are a work of art! The shots are 1 for $2 or 3 for $5. Clearly buying in bulk is the way to go. Just make sure that you don’t drink too much, it is an on-mountain restaurant after all, so you must ski down after imbibing.

I suggest that you take advantage of the sunshine and warm weather while you can. As the snow softens, the skiing gets more leisurely, no longer having to battle long lift lines for fresh powder. It’s a nice shift and the weather provides a glimpse of the summer to come after a long winter.

Powder Day in Jackson Hole – Lift Strategy

Any good powder day starts off the same way: alarm blaring at 7am, stumbling around the house making sure that I have everything that I need to ski. There is nothing worse than making it to the mountain only to realize that I forgot my ski socks or even worse, ski boots (been there, done that). On the way to the mountain I grab a coffee or burrito to help soften the blow of standing in line for an hour and a half before the lifts open.

You think I’m crazy? Tell the other 200 people in line for the tram at 8am. Ah, the tram. Now here comes the million dollar question: is standing in line for the tram actually worth it? On big powder days (anything 8+ inches) I have come to expect a delayed opening. The mountain almost always opens the same way on a powder day. First Teewinot, the beginner lift, opens simultaneously with Apres Vous. So if you are in a time crunch and need to get your powder fix standing in line at Teewinot and making up to Apres Vous (also known as AV) first thing is a great approach. The terrain isn’t as challenging as it is off the Tram, Sublette or Thunder, but if you only have a few hours early in the morning or if you would rather spend your morning skiing than waiting in line it’s your best bet.

The next lift after Apres Vous to open is typically the gondola. Thunder follows the opening of the gondola. The tram will open next and then Sublette. Sublette is a fixed gripped quad that runs up an exposed ridge. It isn’t unusual to have a no singles rule on windy days or to close it entirely. The tram, however, rarely closes due to high winds.

This morning, I arrived at the mountain at 9:30am. I knew that it was going to be a delayed opening but with 25 inches in the past 24 hours I really wanted to ski the mountain when it first open. I walked past the tram line, which snaked up the hill to the Cafe 6311 and then back down around again. Too long, I thought. As I passed the tram line it became apparent that the singles line for the gondola line was so long that the tram line and line for the gondola almost touched. People, skis, snowboards and poles were strewn everywhere. I made my way to the back of the gondola line and checked the time: 9:45am.

By 10:30 I was starting to get restless. I dropped my skis and headed off to get a coffee. When I returned I was greeted by whoops coming from the gondola line. At first, I thought that they had opened the gondola. Then I saw a PBR can fly through the air. A fellow skier was trying to ease the burden of a long lift line with no projected opening by throwing cans of PBR into a crowd of thirsty skiers and riders.

When I returned to my place in line the rumors were flying: “Someone said that they weren’t going to open the Tram at all today” to which a skier responded “Well, I heard that the mountain may not open at all today!” BOOM. Another blast from a bomb dropped by ski patrol. “Well that’s another 20 minutes” says another. The rumor is that Patrol waits 20 minutes after throwing their last bomb before opening the mountain. But that’s what they all are, rumors.

At 11:30 I was told by a reliable source that the gondola wasn’t going to open for another hour or two, so I decided to leave my spot in line and go get some lunch. After waiting for 2 hours I was hungry and tired of standing in line. Literally 2 minutes after I got out of line the gondola opened. Point being: no matter how many rumors you hear, none of them are likely to be true so just sit tight and hold your ground. Unfortunately, there is no trick to knowing when the mountain is going to open, you just have to be prepared for a long wait on powder days. The ski patrol needs to do their job well in order to keep us all safe, so be patient. After all, once you get on the lift and start skiing the powder you tend to forget about all of the waiting.

My Favorite Groomed Runs at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

So you’ve come to Jackson Hole for the holidays to ski “the big one.” You showed your office buddies the Forbes article, stating that Jackson Hole Mountain Resort is the number 1 ski resort in the country. You’ve heard the famed tales of Corbet’s Coulior and stories about the rugged terrain. However, when you arrive in this proclaimed paradise you find that the Tram isn’t even open yet due to a lack of snow. Not only that, but on your first day on the slope you take a core shot to the base of your ski. The untamed moguls have turned into a minefield of rocks and stumps. This is not what you expected. What to do when your vision of a perfect ski vacation gets turned upside down?

Head for the groomers! Though Jackson Hole is not known for their groomed runs, there are some fun ones. Sharpen your edges, get some good tunes pumping on your ipod and rip it up! As much fun as skiing the Moran Woods, Hobacks and Alta Chutes can be, I still find going fast downhill on groomers very riveting. Carving so hard that you almost fall over, soaring down the slope at daring (but in control) speeds can be enjoyable. There are only two lifts that you need to know to take you to this speed racer haven: Casper and Apres Vous.

Apres Vous (known as AV by the locals) is a high speed detachable quad, which allows you to cram in up to 10 laps over the course of an hour. There are three groomed runs from the top of Apres Vous. I would suggest skiing in the morning before the trails turn into sheets of ice. Early apres ski is always an option.

Casper also has three groomed options, however, the triple was built in 1974 so it is rather slow and the chairs are uncomfortable to sit on. The runs are fun, and the area usually boasts a Nastar course, a family favorite. At the base of Casper is a lodge, serving lunch, as well as alcoholic beverages. Lift Line, located under the Casper chair, is my favorite groomed run on the mountain. Casper offers blue terrain whereas Apres Vous offers two blues and one black trail.

At the end of the day, remember you are on vacation. So don’t get stressed if the conditions aren’t great. Just think of it as a way to explore more of the Jackson Hole area than you normally would. Other off slope activities that you could do include a sleigh ride in the elk refuge, snowmobiling to Granite Hot Spring, cross country skiing, or heading over the hill to ski Grand Targhee. Still at a loss? Read this post on other family activities to do in Jackson during the winter. I hope that you enjoy your holiday and hopefully the snow will start to fly soon so the rest of the mountain can open.

Wrapping up the Ski Season at Jackson Hole

Powder days are great, but there is something about spring skiing that I just love. Maybe it’s how you can leisurely ski without worrying about how many powder laps you get on the Tram before you have to go back to work. Or maybe it is being able to enjoy sitting on a chairlift, soaking in the sun, instead hunkering down and doing battle with 10 degree weather and 30 mph winds. My favorite part of spring skiing at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort is being able to sit on the Casper deck, have a beer and watch skiers glide by. It almost feels downright tropical (when you replace the beach with a ski hill of course). After a long brutal winter, sunshine and beer on the Casper deck is the cure to anyone’s blues. Unfortunately, this winter I only got one opportunity to enjoy a beer on the Casper deck, and it was short lived. This spring has graced us with only one beautiful spring ski day: gaper day.

What is Gaper day you might ask? Short for Gaper’s Fools Day, every April 1 the locals of Jackson Hole dig out their finest retro ski attire and hit the slopes. Daffys and spread eagles are encouraged to accompany the hoards of one pieces, rear entry boots, and skate skis. This day is all about acting silly and having a good time. If you happen to be at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort on an April Fools Day make sure that you head over to “Thunder,” the bump run under the Thunder lift in the afternoon. Ridiculousness ensues as locals build a small kicker and take turns showing off their retro moves. Meanwhile, crowds of people drink PBRs and cheer them on. After the lifts close everyone heads down to “Music Under the Tram.” If you don’t ski, you should make a point to walk by the tram in the afternoon and take in the scene. Tons of people, most still in their ski boots, socialize, commenting on their friend’s getup’s, expressing a bit of one-piece envy. Luckily, my mother provided me with her old one piece from the mid-80s so I fit right in.

Closing day at the mountain is very similar to Gaper day, but the costumes are even more original. This year I witnessed a piece of pizza from the Village Cafe, Big Bird, Tiger, lots of princesses, and tons of men dressed in suits. Sadly, this year closing day was 10 degrees and snowing. However, to my surprise, it did not slow anyone down. Lots of people were rocking out to music under the tram until 7pm. At which point, live music started at many venues around town. The day after the mountain closed Jackson put away their 80s attire and resumed normal life. However, Targhee’s closing day is this coming Sunday, we will have to see how they compete with Jackson Hole’s closing day. Something tells me that it won’t be as exciting, but we shall see..

My 5 Favorite Expert Trails at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

Jackson Hole Mountain Resort is not a ski resort for the faint at heart. I have just returned from a trip to Vail and discovered Jackson Hole is the polar opposite of the ever popular Vail. Despite the obvious size difference, Jackson Hole does not have the wide open bowls and mellow groomers that you think of when you think of skiing out west. In fact, two of the lifts (Sublette and Thunder) have only one or two groomed options. The tram that brings you to the summit offers no easy groomed way down. In fact, during tram announcements once you reach the top, the lifty states that “Rendezvous Mountain from the tram is recommended for skiers with expert ability only.” You are allowed to ride the tram back down in case you decide that Rendezvous Bowl is not for you.

Most people don’t come to Jackson Hole on a whim, due to the fact that airfare into Denver or Salt Lake City is so cheap, and there are plenty of mountains down there to choose from. People who come to Jackson Hole want to experience a challenging mountain. With Corbet’s Coulior being one of the top most challenging trails in the world, it is no doubt that Jackson Hole is going to give you a run for your money. Just stick your tips over the edge of Corbet’s and you’ll get quite the adrenaline rush. Now in order to keep this post relatively short, I have narrowed my selection down to my top 5 favorite expert trails at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. I would like to point out that all of the runs listed below are ungroomed. Below I have highlighted the trails that I recommend on the Jackson Hole map.

1. The Hobacks (blue on map) – This relentless “run” if you can call it that, takes you from 3/4 of the way up the mountain all the way to the bottom. It is a large open snowfield dispersed with the occasional tree. It’s too bad that this beast of a trail can’t be easily lapped due to the fact that you can only access it from the Tram or Sublette lift and that the lift at the bottom takes you back to the base.

This trail is the mother of all thigh burners. Always ungroomed and seemingly endless, the Hobacks are relatively mild in pitch and provide an enormous amount of vertical. This is a great “go to” run, but be aware that it takes awhile to get to the top of the trail and once you reach the bottom you must take a chair back to the base area.

2. Moran Faces or Moran Woods (orange on map) – This area takes you through relatively mild terrain with many trees and some open spaces. To access it take the Casper Lift. This is a fun area to lap after a snow storm since you can usually find powder sometimes days after a storm. I hesitate to call it a trail because you can take a little traverse into it and drop down wherever you feel like it. In 2013 Jackson Hole put in a high speed quad so you can lap nice mellow groomers and the powder filled Moran Woods with ease and speed. Another benefit is that Casper Lodge is only a few steps away so you can grab some beers on the deck in between runs.

3. Alta Ridge/Alta Chutes (pink on map) – Now we get a little more challenging. The Alta chutes are located off the Sublette chair. The chutes can be seen while riding up the chair on your left hand side. It is not uncommon to see locals hucking themselves off cliffs in these chutes after a big dump. The Alta Ridge itself is quite mellow as well as the skiers right side of the ridge, but if you drop off the skiers left side be prepared to make your way down some steep narrow chutes. Alta 1 is the most popular, located about 100 feet down from the beginning of the ridge on your left. Relatively narrow and technical, I would recommend that you be a confident skier to go down this chute. A similar chute and equally enjoyable is Tower 3, located off of the Thunder lift. If you decide to bypass Alta 1 there are plenty of other options that are more open but have the additional element of trees.

4. Paintbrush to Toilet Bowl (red on map) – One of my favorite trails since it is steep terrain and if you feel like challenging yourself there are plenty of little cliff drops to try in Toilet Bowl. Located off of the Thunder Chair, Paintbrush is a double black that is relatively open but very steep. The bottom of Paintbrush will spit you out into Toilet Bowl. Beware that if you go left at the top of the bowl you have a chance of getting cliffed out in the early season and no, they will not rope off that section. Jackson Hole Mountain Resort allows you to go pretty much anywhere except for large cliff areas or avalanche zones. They will, however, put up a sign that says “caution: cliff area.” Toilet bowl is a small bowl with a mix of terrain.  It has something for everyone.

5. The Cirque (green on map) – One of my favorite bowls. To access it take the Sublette lift and exit right and traverse over. The only down side about this bowl is that it gives you only a little vertical before it spits you into the groomed drainage (Amphitheater Trail) which leads you back to the Thunder lift. It’s a wide bowl that gets neglected most of the time so there is always good snow in it. I enjoy it since it is a pretty mellow run but nice and wide open so you can find some fresh snow if you hunt for it.

So there you have it. My top 5 expert runs, let me know what you think of them. Did I leave any out? What are you favorite runs at Jackson Hole?